The History of Silk

Silk is a natural protein fibre, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The best-known type of silk is obtained from cocoons made by the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx modi reared in captivity (sericulture). The shimmering appearance for which silk is prized comes from the fibres’ triangular prism-like structure which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles.

"Wild silks" are produced by caterpillars other than the mulberry silkworm and can be artificially cultivated. A variety of wild silks have been known and used in China, South Asia, and Europe since early times, but the scale of production was always far smaller than that of cultivated silks. They differ from the domesticated varieties in colour and texture, and cocoons gathered in the wild usually have been damaged by the emerging moth before the cocoons are gathered, so the silk thread that makes up the cocoon has been torn into shorter lengths. Commercially reared silkworm pupae are killed by dipping them in boiling water before the adult moths emerge, or by piercing them with a needle, allowing the whole cocoon to be unravelled as one continuous thread. This permits a much stronger cloth to be woven from the silk. Wild silks also tend to be more difficult to dye than silk from the cultivated silkworm.

There is some evidence that small quantities of wild silk were already being produced in the Mediterranean area and the Middle East by the time the stronger, cultivated silk from China began to be imported.

How is silk made?

Silk production is a tedious and lengthy process that requires continuous supervising of the smallest of the details. To ensure the quality of silk, it is important to consider two conditions:

-prevent the moth from hatching out

-and setting the perfect diet, on which the silkworms should feed.

The hatching of the eggs occurs at 77 degrees; the baby silk worms gorge on the mulberry leaves and becomes almost 10,000 times their weight within one month. This feeding happens unless they have built up enough energy to enter the ‘cocoon stage’. During this period, a jelly like substance is formed in their silk glands which harden on contact with air. These cocoons look like white puffy balls. After eight to nine days, these silk worms are killed, by steaming or baking. When these cocoons are dropped into hot water, they become loose and open out into filaments which are unwound into a spool. Each filament is between 600 and 900 meters long. To get one silk thread, approximately five to eight filaments are twisted together; these silk threads are then woven into cloth or used for embroidery work.

Types of silk fabrics

Charmeuse – This silk type is one of the most widely recognized fabrics that are available in the market today. It is typically characterized by its lustrous shine and sumptuous feel and is primarily used for the manufacture of skirts, dresses, eveningwear, nightgowns, lingerie, and gently shaped tops

Crepe de Chine or CDC – This kind of silk has a ‘matte’ surface and a ‘pebbled’ texture; besides it is also extremely durable and wrinkle resistant. Due to its light weight, it is a hot favourite among the designers and is primarily used for fashionable and sophisticated skirts, dresses, suits and evening wear

Filament silk or reeled silk - Made of individual strands that vary in length, this versatile knit fabric maximizes silk’s superb ability to insulate your body and wick away moisture. It is characterized by its light in weight yet highly durable. Its elastic and luxurious texture makes it ideal for the chic and opulent lingerie’s slips, and camisoles. The natural elastic quality of this fabric ensures all day comfort and is perfect for beneath casual & business clothes.

Georgette – Georgette reminds one of crepe de Chine. It is soft and lustrous that drapes very easily and falls into soft ripples. It is characterized by a ‘grainy’ texture and is used for the manufacture of dresses, skirts, blouses, tops and evening wear.

Habutai – “Habutai”, meaning ‘soft and downy’ in Japanese was first used for the making of Kimonos. It is soft, light, and lustrous with a very graceful drape and smooth surface and is utilized for making blazers, skirts, lingerie, suits, quilts, jacket linings, dresses and evening wear.